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THE CYMBIDIUM MYTH - Caring for your Cymbidium Orchid Plant on the Gold Coast.

As a general opinion it is thought that it is virtually impossible to make Cymbidiums flower again. I have heard this so many times now and it just seems to be an urban legend or myth that has escalated into “fact” – but it can be done without magic!

1: Shade. The biggest mistake people make is leaving them in too much shade. They need light and good sunlight at times to produce more flower spikes. As a general rule if the plant is dark green in foliage then it is too shady. It will not spike. A little hint if you are able to monitor the plant is to bring it out into the sun (if potted) around Dec/Jan/ for a week or two (yes in Summer) and give them some bursts of strong sunlight without burning them. At this point you can give them a water with some very cold (icy) H20. If in pots don’t let them get the hottest Western sun but morning and Northern seems to work the best. I have many Cymbidiums outside “in the ground". Mine are underneath Schizolobium, Jacaranda, Cassia Javanica and Ghost/Chungii Bamboo. These all drop leaves for the colder times thus opening up to a lot of sunny days. In the heat of Summer there is a leafy canopy again so they just get a bit of morning sun. Pots on a Northern facing verandah or patio are usually in a good position to flower again. If you are keeping in a shadehouse then not too dark. Our storage is underneath a 50% shadecloth.  

2: Watering is pretty simple. In Summer go with 2-4 times a week and Winter you can get away with just the once but be aware that if inside and you have heating you may need to increase that. Don’t overwater. The roots hate sitting in too much moisture and your Cymbidium will not survive. So don’t let them dry out completely in Summer and make sure the watering when done drains right through the mix. The usual method is to pick the pot up and dunk it in a sinkful of water for a few seconds. Alternatively have a saucer and pour water from the top of the pot (not over the foliage) Done!

Mine outside are rarely watered and they get belted by rain sometimes. As I am more into landscapes and not individual flowers I have mine for the overall natural jungle look. If you are able to monitor your Cymbidiums then you can throw a thick shadecloth or tarp over the top during the rainy days to help prolong the lifespan of the flower.

3: Fertilizing. I water mine with aquarium water from a freshwater system from time to time. That does  make a noticeable difference to a trained eye but even without that the others look good. A slow release Osmocote can be put in around September. Aquasol or Seasol can be used at the directed bottle dose. And lastly -

4: Air movement. Don’t huddle them together as a general rule. They like to have an airy environment around the whole plant. Don’t place directly under a strong air con in cool or warm mode though. If outside don’t have them backed against a wall or fence (for increased chance of fungus and pests) as the air is limited to moving around the plant.

GROWING IN THE GROUND? – Yes for sure. All the above requirements but do not plant them in soil. Use a Cymbidium mix (available at most nurseries) and plant well above the ground level so there is no chance of water being caught around the roots. You can even put a housebrick or stones down first for extra drainage.

PESTS and DISEASE – The Cymbidiums can be affected by Cymbidium Mosaic Virus (check internet for further info) which rarely attacks. Don’t confuse this with your typical Fungus which can be treated early and easily. If there is blackening of any leaves then cut off immediately and spray with a fungicide. If any of the bulbs are blackening spray immediately. Refer to Black Rot (on the net.) We use Mancozeb or Zineb. Pests are all your normals – Slugs, Mealy Bugs, Aphids but very rarely do they show up outside of Greenhouse conditions.

ENJOY!